Our Magical Mae Salong Loop Adventure

There is something so very special about traveling a road you have not yet ventured, particularly if you are in a county foreign to your own. There is a sense of excitement & the unknown leaving your senses in awe as you set your eyes on people and places for the very first time.

These were just some of the feelings I experienced on our 5 day road trip adventure driving The Mae Salong Loop.

Over the 5 days we traveled a total of 714km and stopped at many beautiful places each probably deserving of their own individual blog, however in hope of taking you on this amazing journey through my writings and photos I am keeping it all in one little safe place so you can reference it whilst you to venture and explore Northern Thailand.

Phu Chi Fa

As always we started the day relatively early and caught an Uber to the airport to pick up our hire car from National Car Rentals. I loved that they remembered us from last time and whilst all the paperwork was getting organised Phoenix helped behind the desk. Lucky duck always seems to get backstage passes wherever we go!

We jumped into our Honda and we were on our way! I took the wheel and Phoenix sat in the front with Lucas. After our last road trip I felt super confident driving through and out of Chiang Mai. We hit the open road and unfortunately a lot of rain along the way which was a bit of a shame as the scenery, although still great, would have been super amazing had it been a clear day. This also slowed us down a fair bit as the roads were a little slippy and deterred us from really stopping anywhere.

Phu Chi Fah is on the eastern edge of Chiang Rai province in Northern Thailand, so it’s miles away from the tourist track. As you drive to Phu Chi Fa you go through many little villages and towns so there are plenty of places to stop if you need to grab any snacks or petrol. You will also drive through some breathtaking rice fields and see many beautiful temples and Buddhas along the way giving you some perfect photo opportunities.

We had punched our destination into the GPS when we picked up the car. I had booked us into Phu Mok Dok Mai Resort located right at the top of the mountain, exactly where we needed to be for a dawn hike up the mountain to watch the sunrise.... when the GPS said "you have reached your destination" we looked around and knew instantly we were not where we needed to be. I did a quick google search and came across a blog Tied to Thailand which had a map that helped us get to the actual location we needed (unfortunately we had driven 40mins in the WRONG direction) - bugger! - by this stage we were getting pretty over it and just wanted to reach our destination!

We drove for what seemed forever up the mountain. This road is pretty crazy and has loads of potholes so paying attention whilst driving is a must! It was a little nerve racking if I am to be completely honest.

We arrived at the entrance to our accommodation, a dirt road that led up a super steep hill that was very slippy and muddy due to the rain. We had a bit of trouble getting the car up it and the wheels were spinning and at one point I thought we were going to get bogged and have to walk! Pedal to the metal, we finally reached the top and were greeted by the lovely hosts that own the villas. The location was spectacular. We were in the clouds, it was so serene and quiet and the views stretched for miles, but things turned pear shaped after we were shown our villa. It was damp and resembled a cement jail cell! It was only for 1 night so I figured we could put up with it plus the owners of the villas were so super friendly and nice and even brought us fresh hot corn on the cob.

We then had to pay for the room and were advised that they didn't take credit card! We had no cash on us and when I asked where the nearest ATM was the host said in almost a grim fairy tale voice ... "Far... Far... Away" - Seriously! Back down the mountain we went! It was getting dark and anxiety started kicking in... I did not feel safe on this road and for some reason we decided to go down the other side of the mountain which ended up taking over 1hr before we reached the bottom!

We reached the town and found an ATM. It was late, we were hungry and nothing was open! When we were heading back to our car a friendly old (and rather drunk) Thai man came out of his abode and started talking to us and of course was besotted by Phoenix who at this stage was so grumpy and tired! When we said we had to drive back up the mountain his mannerism shifted to one of concern and said "No, you should not go back up the mountain, to dangerous" - That confirmed my already established feelings... I called the guy at Phu Mok Dok Mai Resort to tell him we weren't coming back and would return the key tomorrow and we checked into a motel that was half the price and so much more comfortable!..... We had dinner which consisted of snacks from 7 Eleven and took our grumpy asses straight to bed.......

Hiking up Phu Chi Fa & Lucas Birthday

Originally we had planned to hike up Phu Chi Fa and get the sunrise from the top but considering the drive back up the mountain ahead of us and being totally exhausted from the day before we decided to sleep in and just do a day hike. We drove back up the mountain and returned the key to the villas. The guy was super understanding. We drove to the car park located at the bottom of the trail. Here you will find loads of little vendors set up ready to sell you hot noodles, drinks and t shirts and .... it started raining! We were beginning to think we were never going to accomplish our goal, but we had driven so far to get here so decided to drive around for a while and take some photos. There are some spectacular viewing platforms! The sun started to show it's rays so we cut our losses and thought "what's a bit of rain"... we strapped Phoenix into the Ergo Carrier and finally started our climb!

It was very muddy and slippy so watching our footing was a must. If you are thinking of doing this hike I would recommend some really good shoes. The hike was a steady incline but enough to get your heart rate up. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking and we only saw a few other people on the trail.

As we made our way up we stopped at different view points to take some photos! We were literally in the clouds! We finally reached the highest peak and looked over into Laos. Phu Chi Fah means “the mountain that points to the sky” and now I understand why. Complete silence. An eerie yet exhilarating experience.

Looking back down the path we had just walked we saw some Monks walking the trail, seeing their Saffron Robes walking through the mist was a magical sight. Today was Lucas' birthday and what a way to remember it and mark the occasion! We walked back down the trail to the car park and got ready for our next leg of the journey, Chiang Rai!

Chiang Rai

After we went back down the mountain, the drive from Phu Chi Fa to Chiang Rai was mainly all flat roads through rice fields. The sun was starting to come out now and the rain had ceased which made the 2.5hr journey much more pleasant! Along the way we stopped at a cute little cafe with loads of quirky figurines. Phoenix had fun running around and after a quick bite to eat and some fun photos we continued our drive.

We arrived in Chiang Rai and checked into our accommodation. We had booked into the lovely  'Baanmalai Guest House'. The staff here we so helpful and friendly and the room was huge and decorated in tradition Thai style. We relaxed for a while and Phoenix had a nap and then we got ready to head out for dinner.

After dinner we headed to the markets where they sold some really cute handmade items along with the traditional Thai style souveniers. They were so pretty with their little white tent stalls set up and fairy lights, the rain started to kick in again and this time it hit like a torrential down pour! No umberella or raincoat could save us, we were drenched! As always we tried to see the fun in it and laughed all the way back to our room.

The next morning we woke up and enjoyed some breakfast that was included in our booking, loaded the car up and headed to the main attraction we came to Chiang Rai for, the famous White Temple.

The White Temple I have to say is spectacular! The amount of work that has gone into creating it is unbelievable to say the least. From afar you can take in it's full beauty but to fully appreciate the workmanship you have to go inside the temple grounds and get an up-close look. The detail is incredible!

After exploring the temple it was time to hit the road once again and head to our next destination which would take just over an hour.... Mae Salong!

MaeSalong

This was a lovely drive and part of our journey, very relaxing compared the the last day or two and the sun was shining which made it all the much better! As you drive to MaeSalong you are greeted with amazing country side, rolling hills and greenery for days. Papaya trees grow like weeds on the side of the row and for some reason this still gets me excited!

We drove through and up some tiny dirt roads (thanks google maps) which was exciting and made the adventure all that more exhilarating. We passed many run down shanties that people in the hills call homes and it really got me thinking. Most people would look at how these hill folk live and think to themselves.... Geesh we are so lucky in the Western World to have what we have but for me in this moment I felt something quite different. They are the lucky ones! As they smile and go about their simple lives I couldn't help but feel a bit envious. I mean they didn't have any power or internet. No mains water or gas. They had no bills, no debt, no big shopping centers or TV to be influenced by mainstream media or commercial advertising. They lived off the land and boy did they have the biggest smiles I have every seen. Their days are spent working in their farms where they grow their own food that I can only assume they trade with their neighbor or sell for a bit of money.

We passed many temples on the way to MaeSalong and stopped to explore a couple of times to stretch our legs and take in the amazing scenery.

We were so happy to arrive at our overnight accommodation, the MaeSalong Mountain Home, With a warm greeting and some excited tails wagging from the resident pups we were shown to our cabin. This was the most relaxing stay and most enjoyable part of our trip. The rooms were basic but comfortably perfect at the same time. We enjoyed a lovely dinner and Phoenix made friends with the dogs and another little girl who was also staying there. We took a bottle of red wine back to the cabin, put Phoenix to bed and then sat on the little balcony attached to our cabin and listened to the sounds of nature. It started raining but for me that made it even more tranquil.

The next morning we packed up and reluctantly departed. My only regret was not booking an extra night here but have no doubt that we will return in the not so distant future.

It was time to explore MaeSalong. Our first stop was a little coffee shop where Lucas made friends with the resident cat. I always find it so hilarious that cats are drawn to him when he is so allergic! The view was lovely and a great way to start the days adventures. Outside of the coffee shop there was a lady with her baby selling little souvenirs. Another moment of gratitude was experienced in this moment. We headed a little further down the street and up a hill and found some local markets selling all kids of fruits, herbs and spices. And then ventured to one of the local temples.

We decided to start heading toward Chiang Dao. I noticed a little look out on the map so we decided to check it out, however our GPS let us down and instead we ended up in a little shanty village. On seeing our car the kids in the village ran out toward us. I looked at Lucas and said... Lets get out and say hello, so that is what we did. No one spoke English but that didn't seem to matter. Everyone was besotted by Phoenix and he had fun playing with the kids for a while. They had so little but were so happy. Phoenix had a turn on one of the kids little bikes, it was not in great condition but he loved it! I was reminded once again that kids don't know what they don't know and that half the time all the toys and gifts that children receive are really to make US happy as givers. As a receiver a child is happy with anything. We said goodbye and made our way to Chang Dao.

Chiang Dao

Our final leg of the journey and only 55km away from MaeSalong. It was a windy road but the views as always were breath taking. We stopped at a little cafe half way to stretch out legs and grab a quick coffee. I was surprised to see that this particular cafe had a vineyard out the back which was something a bit different!

If you are anything like me when you first arrive in Chiang Dao you will feel there is just something 'different' about it, it gives a different vibe to other places we have visited. I soon learned that Chiang Dao and Doi Luang (the extravagant mountain that Chiang Dao sits below) is an extremely spiritual place with many stories, urban legends and mystery surrounding it.

When we reached our accommodation called 'Into The Woods', my first thought was 'Oh my goodness we are literally in a Grim Fairy-tale'.

We were greeted by about 7 newly born kittens! So very cute! After checking in we decided to go check out the food scene and were pleasantly surprised! If you are vegan like us you will definitely have no issues filling your belly.

That night we also headed out to dinner and enjoyed a few relaxing and very much deserved beers! Phoenix made another friend so was kept entertained.

Chiang Dao Caves

We checked out of our accommodation and headed to the Chiang Dao Caves, the towns main attraction and for good reason. Those urban legends and spooky tales I was talking about earlier all stem from this location making it all the more eerie and exciting! The caves are magnificent and definately worth the visit and with so much history and mystery surrounding them, your imagination will run wild as you explore. Entrance fee is 40 baht electricity (torch fee). A guides price is suggested at 100 baht plus tip.  There are plenty of food stalls in the area outside the caves. Chiang Dao is popular with Thai's taking a weekend away so expect crowds during weekends however we were super lucky as we went mid week and first thing in the morning so there was hardly anyone around.

There was so much rain when we visited that unfortunately parts of the cave were closed off as they were filled with water so we were unable to take advantage of the guided tour part.

Its also worth exploring the grounds around the caves entrance. You will see loads of positive words of wisdom pinned to the posts and trees along with really old monks sleeping quarters and some beautiful ruins build into the mountain.

Chiang Dao Sticky Waterfalls

After exploring the caves we hit the road yet again to make our way to our final destination for the day before heading back to Chiang Mai, the Chiang Dao Sticky Waterfalls!

As I said earlier there was a fair bit of rain and so the road to get into the carpark at the waterfall was so muddy I thought at one point we were going to get bogged! We made it though and boy am I glad we did.

These waterfalls are not your usually waterfalls. As the name suggests they are sticky and that is due to the limestone that the water cascades over. You can actually climb up these falls without your feet slipping on moss from under you. Very Cool!

It is a bit of a walk down loads and loads of uneven steps... if only they were made of limestone to. We had to take our time as we were carrying Phoenix.

As soon as we arrived at the bottom of the falls Phoenix stripped off and had an absolute ball playing in the water. He could have honestly have stayed there for hours. It was so peaceful and he was really in his element being at one with nature, the smells, texture of the rocks and the water running through his hands. It also gave us a perfect opportunity to grab some gorgeous photos of him in this moment.

I can honestly recommend this road-trip to everyone! It was 5 days of beautiful memories and moments that will stay with us forever.

I hope you have enjoyed reading this blog as much as I have writing it for you. my wish is that it has inspired you to go on your next adventure. Sometimes it's best not to think to much and just let the road guide you xx

Journey Far and Wide

Julie xxx