Our Epic Road-trip to Pai, Northern Thailand

For most people, driving in another country is a bit of a nerve racking thought, especially when it comes to driving in Thailand. If you have been here before you will now what I am talking about....It can get pretty crazy as there are basically no road rules and the ones that do exist are very rarely enforced. You have to deal with Motorbikes, Tuk-Tuks, other cars, Songthaews, street markets and people all going in every which direction all at the same time (well that's what it seems). As overwhelming as that all seems it didn't stop us from hiring a car and setting off on an epic adventure to Pai, located approximately 130km from Chaing Mai...

Day 1: The Road Trip, 762 Bends, Waterfalls & Arriving in Pai

On the morning of our road trip we caught an Uber to Chiang Mai airport where we arranged to pick up our hire car, a cute little Nissan March. We booked our car through National Car Hire Thailand and paid Approximately 3,987THB ($150 AUD) for a 4 day hire including full coverage insurance PLUS 10,000THB refundable Bond ($386 AUD). The team at National were fantastic and we had no trouble booking without a Thai drivers license which we were a little worried about as there is so much conflicting information online about this.

After taking care off all the paperwork we were on our way. Lucas was more than happy to give me the drivers seat and hold Phoenix in the front (no car seats here) which was probably a good thing because god bless him we may never have got there if he was driving.... Lets just say he is far to polite on the road and has a problem "pushing in" to get into the right lane - I on the other hand have this skill down to a tea!

We used Google Maps on our phone to navigate us out of the airport and the hustle and bustle of Chiang Mai, which of course was going to be the trickiest part. We managed however with no problems and I felt rather proud of myself! To be honest we left reasonably early so the traffic wasn't too crazy as people in Chiang Mai don't normally open shop until 10am. We hit the wider open roads and from there it was really smooth and it wasn't long before we saw a sign that pointed to Pai!

Once we got on the 1095 we were a bit more relaxed and eventually surrounded by fresh air and open country side. It really is such a beautiful drive. Along the way we drove through little towns where local farmers had there stalls set up selling fresh fruit.

Approximately 55km along the 1095 from Chaing Mai we noticed signs for the Mok Fah Waterfalls and decided to do a quick detour and check them out. On arrival at the carpark we were greeted by some very friendly chickens. Phoenix just loved them! We headed over to the little booth where we paid 100THB each as a national park entry fee. We then followed the signs pointing us in the direction of the waterfalls.

As we started walking it started raining slightly and a lovely lady working in the gardens near the tourist information building loaned us her umbrella to stay dry. The rain didn't come to much really. We continued to walk along the dirt paths and up some stairs for what seemed not very long and low and behold there was the falls. They weren't huge by any means but there was something so very magical about them. I only wish I had brought my bathers as I would have been straight in the water to cool off, it really was that inviting! We were the only people there giving us the feeling we had uncovered a hidden paradise all of our own. We spent some time taking photos and Phoenix had fun splashing at the waters edge. We had to make tracks though so put it on our list of places to revisit before leaving Thailand.

The next part of the road trip had us entertained by the many quirky cafes and the random super hero statues. We stopped to stretch our legs and have a break at a cafe called the Witches House. As a child I was obsessed with witches, so the 7year old Julie was a tad bit excited! Unfortunately (and to no surprise) they didn't have soy milk but I have learned now to carry my own and the lady there (who I actually think was a real witch) was more than happy to make me an iced coffee.

After our short stop we were back on the road...and what a road it was. I did mention in the subtitle 762 bends and I wasn't joking! This road is certainly no good to drive if you get car sick. For a good 2 hours the steering wheel did not stop - round, and round, and round! To the left, to the right and repeat 762 times all the way up a very steep mountain! You get my drift. They actually sell t-shirts at the night markets in Pai to verify the number if you don't believe me!

We finally arrived in Pai! As we drove through the little roads to find our accommodation we were breath-taken by the countryside. We did unfortunately drive past about 3 Elephant camps where the elephants were all tied up waiting for the next round of uninformed tourists to jump on their back and go riding. If you are reading this and thinking about riding an elephant, please don't and google the reasons why and then decide if that Instagram photo is really worth their suffering!

We reached our accommodation, the Pai Porpeang Guesthouse and were happily greeted by 'Soda' the Labrador. We were then shown to our little bungalow overlooking the rice fields. The property at Pai Porpeang was just beautiful, surrounded by fruit trees and little areas to relax on a hammock where you could easily let the days slip away. Our bungalow was very basic but was clean and comfortable and all we needed. It even had its own outdoor kitchen and fridge. The Wifi at the property was great and the common area was set up each morning for breakfast where you could help yourself to fruit, coffee and tea. The staff at Pai Porpeang Guesthouse were more than accommodating and couldn't do enough to ensure our stay was comfortable and memorable. We paid only 945THB in total for 3 nights here (Approx $35.50 AUD).

After we were settled in, Lucas and Phoenix had a nap whilst I sat on the balcony and did some writing and work. We then made our way into town only 5mins down the road to grab something to eat and check out the night markets.

This part of the trip I will not forget. As we were trying to find a place to park I turned down a street which did in fact take us to the night markets...literally. The only problem with this was that I ended up on the actual strip - Markets, street dogs, motorbikes and what felt like hundreds of people. I was not meant to be on this road, in-fact it is closed to cars at night. Once I was on this very very narrow street I couldn't get off it and could only keep driving down it! I am not sure if the tourists in Pai are completely Zen and in their own world or utterly stupid but generally if you see a car you move to the side and let it through, right? but I almost felt like I was invisible! These people just would not move. Completely embarrassed by our wrong turn and in hysterics with laughter at the same time, we finally after what felt like forever made it to the end of the street and found a parking lot!

We headed into a restaurant called the Witches Well (yep more witches haha) where the staff were amazing and not only prepared us vegan versions of the menu but also kept Phoenix entertained. I am still blown away by the love Thai people, both male and female, have for young children. It is honestly a privilege for them.

We then made our way BY FOOT down the night markets. We noticed a girl selling vegan falafels! We were already full from dinner but did head back there the following night and they were delicious!

Day 2: Discovering Earth Tone, The big White Buddha & Pai Temples

After sleeping in and catching up on some much needed rest we ventured out for a walk and came across a FANTASTIC cafe literally 100 meters down the road from Pai Porpeang Guesthouse. We absolutely fell in love with EARTH TONE. Everything about this place was brilliant! There is a super relaxed atmosphere and vibe, a huge vegan menu, amazing smoothies, a health food store, vegan ice cream, vegan deserts, friendly staff not to mention my beloved Soy Latte! If you are visiting Pia you need to put Earth Tone on your list of places to eat.

After filling our bellies with amazing healthy, clean food we jumped in the car to go see Pai's Big White Buddha (Wat Phra That Mae Yen). To reach the White Buddha we had to climb an impressive 353 steps. When you do get to the top and catch your breath you are rewarded with a spectacular view over Pai. On the day we visited the Buddha was undergoing a bit of TLC and looked like she was being held together with toothpicks but still a magnificent sight! I couldn't help but think of the time and maintenance that goes into keeping the stairs and the Buddha white and clean!

We were pretty sweaty after going up and down all those stairs so decided the take a little drive around Pai in the comfort of the cars air-conditioning and see what else we could find. Along one of the roads I noticed another white Buddha and gorgeous temple (Wat Mae HI). This Buddha although smaller was not undergoing any toothpick surgery and with the dark rain clouds setting in around us, it was the perfect photo opportunity and chance to PAUSE for a few minutes and reflect. I took a moment here with Phoenix to practice gratitude for this amazing journey we are on. I know Phoenix won't remember all the places we are visiting but I do hope that all these spectacular images, colours and textures are in some way shaping him to be open minded, grateful and adventurous.

Day 3: Pai's awesome quirky cafes & memorial bridge

On day 3 we decided to check out some of the many quirky cafes that surround Pai and the Memorial Bridge. Our first stop was COFFEE IN LOVE. The coffee shop was the setting for a major Thai film (Pai in Love, 2009) and a smash hit Chinese film (Lost in Thailand, 2012) so with Lucas and I being budding filmmakers this was a "must stop" for us! The views are spectacular and there are so many photo opportunities and cute little areas to sit and take it all in. You will find COFFEE IN LOVE about 2.8km from Pai Village.

Our next stop was STRAWBERRY LOVE (Yep there is a lot of LOVE in Pai). We had so much fun here with Phoenix. After enjoying the most yummiest strawberry smoothie going (so good we went back the following day to get another on our road trip out of Pai) and some veggie spring rolls we let Phoenix run free to play and explore among all the many strawberry statues. STRAWBERRY LOVE also offers some great views and is a really nice place to sit and relax in between site seeing.

Our final stop of the day was the WWII MEMORIAL BRIDGE which appears as one of the top 10 things to do when visiting Pai if you were to search on Google. The steel bridge and the original wooden structures that preceded it have an interesting history.

During World War II, the Japanese army wanted to create a route from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son to attack Burma which was a colony of the United Kingdom at that time. To establish the route, the bridge was built over the Pai River in 1941 using elephants to drag trees from the jungle and forcing villagers to work. After the war, the Japanese soldiers left and burnt down the bridge. However, this left the villagers a little stuck. The bridge was important for their daily life so they rebuilt it!

On visiting the MEMORIAL BRIDGE you will also notice some rather interesting statues that almost look like Transformers made from old steel parts. You wouldn't expect anything less from Pai!

Day 4: Our Final Day - The Pai Canyon & The Longest Bamboo Bridge

It was our final day in Pai and we realised that we still had places we wanted to visit and see! So we checked out of our Guesthouse and hit the road before 9am to squeeze in some final Pai Hot Spots before heading back down the mountain.

We decided to go to the PAI CANYON and see what all the hype was about. To reach the top of the canyon doesn't take too long. It is a steady and medium up hill hike that takes less than 20 minutes. I was so glad that we made this our first stop of the day as we were the only ones there! It's worth mentioning that most people head up there to watch the magnificent sunset of an evening.

If you have time and a reasonable level of physical fitness the PAI CANYON offers many tracks for the adventurous if you don't mind climbing up and down rocks and boulders, so remember to wear good shoes on your visit. The views from the top are amazing and for us it was a great spot to visit on our last day in Pai just to take in the magic of the country side one last time from above before heading back to Chiang Mai.

Our final stop was the BAMBOO BRIDGE of Su Tong Pae in Mae Hong Son province. This was pretty impressive I have to say and we took more photos here than we would like to admit! The bridge stretches over 500 meters across lush rice fields and is sturdier to walk on than you might first think.

On arrival at the bridge we were greeted by a lady who was a little in love with Phoenix - let's face it he is like a celebrity over here! She pointed us in the direction to get to the start of the bridge. There is no entry fee however you will find a donation box to give freely.

Phoenix was a little obsessed with crawling on the bridge. There must have been something about the texture of the bamboo that caused him to have mini tantrums each time I tried to pick him up.

The scenery as you walk along the bridge really is something else. You are surrounded by the rice fields and farmers, lush green hills and beautiful trees. The bridge is literally a work of art and certainly worth the visit should you be visiting Pai.

The end of the bridge also marked the end of our time in Pai. We have so many wonderful memories of this laid back, quirky little town. I hope to one day return and take advantage of the many yoga and meditation options available here. It certainly is a great place to go if you want to detox, de-stress and re-set.

We made our way back down the hill, past the Witches House and 762 bends later found ourselves back on straight roads heading home to Chiang Mai........

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PHOTO CREDITS : Lucas Scheffel